We’re back! After nearly four years away from Lobster Roll Chronicles, its finally time to embark on a follow-up expedition to seek out the best lobster rolls in northern New England.

This time, we’re starting in our old stomping ground in Portland, ME. Scales opened less than two years ago, and is now under the watchful eye of two co-chefs who, according to staff, have a wonderfully complementary working relationship. With a poured concrete bar that has a built-in oyster sluice, you can’t go wrong banging out a dozen Pemaquids or Damariscottas at the bar, but don’t stop there.

On a whim, we decided to take the LRC out of the barn, and review what, on the surface, appeared to be a fancy-dressed traditional roll. We couldn’t have been further from the truth. The Scales lobster roll is disguised to look like you fancy uncle’s traditional roll, but nested in an in-house baked and perfectly browned split-top roll, this roll successfully combines the two warring factions of lobster roll-dome. Sweet, warm hand-picked lobster meat is first bathed in a brown butter, so good it is guaranteed to turn the heads of the most ardent cold roll fans. But then, this roll it is topped with a home-made chilled aioli mayonnaise that Hellmann’s fans will find exotic, but Cain’s fans will find hauntingly familiar.

Now, is it possible we’ve been away so long that we’ve lost our ability to rank this roll with previous lobster stars? No. We know what we’re doing, and this lobster roll from Scales is one of the best you’ll find, so long as you remain open to the warm-cold combo (which is better than you probably think). At $23, this roll isn’t cheap, but the accompanying fries were perfection, rounding out the value proposition. We give Scale’s roll a HIGHLY RECOMMENDED rating! Here’s how Scales stacked up (0-100):

• T’s Rating: 93
• P’s Rating: 92
• AVERAGE: 92.5

Scales can be found on Maine Wharf, 68 Commercial St. Portland, ME 04101 (behind The Dry Dock Restaurant and Ri-Ra Irish Pub & Restaurant). Find them on FACEBOOK here, or call them at 207.805.0444.